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Common Washing Machine Problems And How To Fix Them - Which?

Whether your washing machine isn’t cleaning your clothes like it used to, or you keep finding leaks after each cycle, don’t ignore the signs that something's wrong with your machine.  

Some washing machine problems can be solved very easily using a few tools or even just by tightening a hose, while others may need the work of a professional. Read our tips and advice on how to fix some of the more frequent faults. Wet Coater

Common Washing Machine Problems And How To Fix Them - Which?

If your washing machine spends more of its life being repaired than it does washing clothes, it might be time to buy a new one. 

We’ve pulled out our best washing machines so you can quickly find a great model you can rely on.

A washing machine that doesn't clean your clothes is far from ideal. But it happens – and more often than you'd think.

One of the most common reasons is a blocked detergent line or tray. If your detergent and softener can't reach your clothes then how can the washing machine wash properly? To add to this, if there is a blockage, eventually detergent, germs and even mould will build up and transfer onto your laundry. This will also happen if the filter is clogged or the drainage pipe is blocked.

Try cleaning out both the detergent drawer and filter before starting your next wash cycle. If it's still not working, you might need to check the drainage (see below).

If your machine is relatively modern, it should display an error code when it fails to finish a wash cycle. If so, check the manual to help you find the best way to tackle the problem.

When an error code doesn't appear, other causes might include:

The most likely reason why your washing machine won't advance to the next cycle is a faulty timer. The timer controls each step of the cycle, moving the process from wash to rinse, and then spin. So if the timer breaks, the cycles can't automatically move on.

The good news is that you can easily replace it yourself or hire a tradesperson to do it for you – just make sure you buy a timer that is compatible with your washer make and model.

If your washing gets to the end of each cycle but refuses to spin, it could be down to something as simple as overloading your machine, causing it to become unbalanced. If you've jammed in too many heavy towels, for example, the weight can affect the sensors and shut off the machine. Re-balance the load and try again.

Need a bigger washing machine so you can fit more in one wash? Check out our reviews of washing machines with an extra-large drum capacity .

If it's not a problem with overloading, it could be one of these issues giving you a washing machine that won't spin:

Other causes include a faulty drive motor or pump. If you're still not sure on the cause call in a professional to inspect your machine.

Most modern washing machines will display an error code on the control panel if there's a problem with the heating system. You can then search for this error code along with the make and model of your machine to find a fix.

It's also important to note that just because you cannot feel the heat through the washing machine it doesn't mean the water isn't hot, as most machines are insulated. If the clothes are being effectively cleaned and there's no error code, then the heating is probably fine.

You spend so much time using your washing machine to clean your clothes you forget that it might need a wash itself from time to time. Smells can come from a dirty door seal or a mouldy drum or detergent drawer.

But the first thing to check is the filter and the drain hose for any blockages. Put towels on the floor to soak any excess water and pull out the filter (normally placed at the bottom of the machine). Remove any material or debris.

Before checking the drain hose, grab a bucket because there could be a gush of water when you detach it from the waste trap under the sink. Inspect both the hose and the trap for anything that could be clogging it up.

If it's clear, then you might need to give the machine a good clean. Mould, built-up grime and detergent can all contribute to bad smells. 

Follow our five easy steps and watch the video on How to clean a smelly washing machine .

A burning smell coming from your washing machine can indicate a potentially dangerous situation. Immediately turn off the machine and unplug it.

The burning smell could be down to a broken drive belt or motor but it's important not to try and attempt to fix the machine yourself unless you're qualified. Instead, call out a professional to diagnose the problem.

If your washing machine won't drain  the excess water, then it will either be caused by a blockage or the pump is broken. You can check which is more likely by listening to the machine during a cycle. 

If you can hear the pump running but the water isn't draining, then it's a blockage. If you can't hear the pump, something's wrong with it.

Whether it's a coin, key or loose sock, blockages are common in washing machines. 

First unplug the washing machine and lay down some towels – water will leak out. Next, inspect the pump filter, which is typically situated at the bottom of the machine, and clear it of any debris.

Now, inspect the drain hose. Typically attached to the waste trap under the sink, the drain hose will be connected via a spigot. 

Unscrew this and empty the excess water from the hose into a bucket or sink. Look in the hose and the waste trap for blockages and remove if necessary.

If none of the above works, check the pump itself for small items of clothing or material that might have wrapped around the impeller. 

Still nothing? The pump may be broken and need replacing or you could have an electrical fault. A technician can help with this.

If your washing machine is broken, check out our list of the best washing machine brands for 2023 .

First, check your detergent. Using incorrect products or too much soap can result in excess suds that could cause the drum to overfill and leak.

Next, ensure the machine is completely level – if it's not, water can seep out.

If the machine's still leaking, then it's time to inspect the hose. Tighten the connections and look for any cracks or rips. 

If water still leaks during the next cycle, you might need to change the water inlet filter screens or the O-rings in the water hose. Any build-up of debris or general wear and tear can cause these items to fail and leak.

If the hose itself is leaking, then it will need to be replaced. It's also wise to check the water pump, too.

If the leak is slightly smaller and coming from the front, this could be the washing machine door. The seal around the dome can become worn with age, resulting in leaking and/or condensation, but it's easily replaceable.

The most common reason for a washing machine overfilling with water is a broken water-level pressure switch. The pressure switch uses air pressure to sense the water level in the machine and tells your washing machine when to stop. If the switch has broken or is blocked then the machine will not know when to stop filling.

There is also a tube attached to the switch. If this has come away from the switch the machine could also risk overfilling. 

Unplug your washing machine, unscrew the top panel and inspect the pressure switch. Each machine will be different so check your manual beforehand.

Another possible culprit could be the water inlet valve. This electronic valve controls the filling of the water. If the valve is faulty and doesn't close during each cycle once the water is at the appropriate level, it will overfill.

Whether your washing machine hums, buzzes or vibrates, if the noise is excessive then it's probably something you shouldn't ignore.

Leaving your washing machine to make a racket even though it's still running could result in breaking the machine completely.

If you think your washer is creating a commotion, follow these easy steps on How to fix a loud washing machine .

Strange noises coming from a washing machine are a slightly different concern to the machine simply being loud. Sounds such as rattling, scraping or knocking shouldn't be ignored, even if they're quiet.

Research and feedback from Which? members has shown the most common reasons for strange washing machine sounds are coins and bra wires. We experimented by putting £1 coins into a variety of washing machines, and found you typically have about 15 minutes to hear them rattling around and pinging off the door before the sound of the wash drowns them out. Bra underwiring makes more of a scratching sound.

If your washing machine won't stop vibrating or even moves around the room during a wash, it probably needs levelling out. Every washing machine has to sit level on a flat surface – and if it isn't it will shake, especially during spin cycles.

Check if the machine is aligned using a spirit level. If it isn't, adjust the feet underneath accordingly.

If the feet are level, then it might be the surface causing the issue. Uneven flooring can create a shaky machine so you can try sitting it on a sturdy piece of wood or old desktop and manoeuvre the corners to even it out.

Unbalanced washing loads can also create lots of movement. For example, squeezing in eight large bath towels and a bed sheet is too much for a 6kg-capacity washing machine – it's bound to vibrate.

If you've just moved house or your washing machine is new, make sure you have removed the transit bolts. These bolts are fitted to the rear panel of the machine and help to lock the drum in place while it's being moved. 

Machines typically have three or four bolts that must be removed before you can use it. If they aren't taken off this will cause vibrations and could eventually cause irreparable damage.

Turn off and fully unplug your machine before you do anything. If your machine is mid-cycle when it starts to play up, follow advice in the instruction manual for stopping and draining it.

If you suspect something is stuck in your washing machine causing an odd noise, check the rubber seal and drum - our tests showed that coins are most likely to get stuck here

Afterwards, check if lost items have ended up in the filter. Follow the instructions in the manual to check and clean the filter, or watch the video above.

If the culprit still can't be found, you run the risk of it slipping between the rubber seal and the metal drum and fall into the surrounding plastic tub. Items that don't get washed down into the filter can be flung about violently by the drum's rotation, especially during the spin cycle. 

The £1 coins we use in our tests have been known to be flung with such force by the drum that it's penetrated the outer plastic tub, which can potentially flood your kitchen and write off your machine.

If something does get stuck in this area, it's likely to make a very loud noise when the machine's running, especially during the spin cycle. If you suspect an item has got caught here, stop the machine and call a repairer. 

The cost of removing the drum assembly for many washing machines is very high, and combined with the call-out cost, it may work out cheaper to buy a new washing machine - we've found Best Buy washing machines for less than £400.

If your washing machine door refuses to lock, then you firstly need to inspect the door and the handle – is there any visible damage that would mean the latch won't operate?

If the door looks fine, then the most likely culprit is a faulty door interlock. This can be repaired. Keen DIYers should find this process relatively simple but always check the instructions for your specific model.

One other, slightly more difficult fix would be repairing the control board. If the interlock is fine but the control board isn't connecting with it, then the machine won't know when to start. Calling in a professional to test this should be your next course of action.

There are plenty of reasons why a washing machine door might refuse to budge, including:

Opening your washing machine door in the event of an emergency isn't easy – or quick. And, depending on your model, there might not even be a solution.

For safety reasons, most machines lock as soon as the cycle begins and not open until after the cycle has completed.

However, some machines have an emergency drain or unlock feature that you can use if the power cuts out.

If your model doesn't have this feature, you can also push the pause button. Once the water has drained away, you'll be able to open the door. You can then restart the cycle by pressing the start button again.

Detergent drawers are prone to build-ups of mould, detergent residue and - in extreme cases - a black jelly-like substance.

As well as looking unpleasant, if it builds up it can prevent detergent from being washed into the machine and water entering the drum.

Most problems with detergent drawers can be fixed by giving them a good clean, and manufacturers recommend you do this regularly anyway. If your detergent drawer is actually broken, replacements can be bought from the manufacturer.

Remove the drawer completely from the washing machine, then while wearing gloves, use lukewarm water and washing-up liquid to give it a good scrub. You'll also want to clean the gap where the drawer sits in the machine, paying particular attention to the holes in the top.

It's also worth doing a service wash on your machine, which means running a very hot wash or a special program - check in the manual for details. Doing this once a month will help to keep dirt and grime at bay.

The only downside to this is that washing on hot temperatures costs more. In our tests, we measure how much water and energy each machine uses, so we can give you an average running cost. 

When your washing machine won't turn on, the first thing to check is the connection and the socket. Is it plugged in? Does the socket look damaged? Can another appliance get power from the same socket? It might not be a fault with the washing machine.

Once you've confirmed that the electricity supply isn't the problem, check the standby switch on the machine. Does it depress normally? Does it stay depressed? Does it look broken? If so, replacing the power switch could do the job.

If the display panel is lit up and you can select program but the cycles won't start, then the door latch might be to blame. This latch indicates to the interlock, and therefore to the machine, that it's safe to move onto the next cycle. If it has worn or broken, the machine won't proceed with a wash. You can attempt to fix this yourself, but if you're not keen on DIY, call a local tradesperson.

Another mechanical issue that could be at fault is the door interlock. This isn't the spring that latches the door shut but the electrical mechanism further inside that keeps the door shut while a wash is in process. Diagnosing and replacing this can be tricky, so it's worth calling a professional in.

Before you do anything, make sure you have removed the transit bolts. These are the bolts in the rear panel that keep the drum locked while the washing machine is being moved. If your machine is vibrating or not running correctly and these are still in place, that's why.

If the bolts have been removed and it's still not working it might be an issue with the installation.

Our guide explains How to install a washing machine properly – take a look.

It's also worth noting the problem might not be anything to do with the move. Check our other common problems to help diagnose the flaw.

If the power to your washing machine won't turn off then your standby button may be faulty. But if the wash cycles won't stop and instead continue after every spin, then it's probably down to the timer or control board.

The timer will signal to the machine when to move to the next phase of the cycle, while the control board will signify what program to use. If either of these is damaged or worn, the machine may continue to run until it's manually stopped. Both parts can be replaced, but the latter should be done by a professional.

If the pump or drain is blocked, therefore stopping the removal of excess water, the machine will also continue to run – it won't advance to spin or finish until the water is drained. Check both for obstructions before paying for a call-out.

Most front-loading washing machines are designed at the standard dimensions of 85cm high and 59.5 to 60cm wide. And most kitchen cabinets are also designed to accommodate this size.

But if you're struggling to fit the machine under your worktop, you could try lowering the machine's adjustable feet to gain an extra few centimetres.

Getting help fixing your washing machine or replacing it

If the problem is serious, your washing machine will need professional attention. To find a reliable repairer in your area, use Which? Trusted Traders to find one that has been assessed and checked by Which? trading standards professionals. 

You can also take a look at our guide to domestic appliance repairs to find out the average costs for a range of jobs, as quoted by Which? Trusted Traders from their years of experience. 

If you're considering replacing your washing machine, our guide to the most reliable washing machine brands reveals which brands are less likely to let you down, based on the data we've collected from thousands of washing machine owners.

If you already know what type and brand of washing machine is for you, then head straight to our washing machine reviews .

Common Washing Machine Problems And How To Fix Them - Which?

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